What I've Been Reading 12/2025

I don't just sell climbing books - I read them as well. While I can't read every book that comes through my hands, I do try and enjoy all that I can. Often, when a good book sells, I get hit with regret-"Dang, I didn't get a chance to read it!"

Here are the last few climbing books I've read, and a few thoughts about each. Some of these are for sale and some I'll keep.

The Eiger Sanction by Trevanian

This was made into a movie with Clint Eastwood, which is probably the direction most people will go. But the book is pretty fun too - a ridiculous, over-the-top James Bond-style thriller. The protagonist, Jonathan Hemlock, is a PhD professor of art who does assassination on the side to pay for his absurd house and his collection of stolen, black-market paintings. Also a skilled climber, he is tasked with pulling off an assassination while climbing the Eiger North Face - one of climbing's most legendary routes. The character and writing are incredibly campy — just insanely cartoonish — but I enjoyed it for the outlandishness. 

I'm keeping the hardcover first edition I read (it's a striking pink!) but you can get it cheap from the dreaded Amazon. (Or elsewhere, I'm sure, if you don't like to support Bezos)

Downward Bound by Warren Harding

One of climbing's true iconoclasts, Warren Harding had personality; it shines through in full force in this creative book. Written as a stage play, it does triple-duty as an instructional manual, a climbing memoir, and a shit-talking book. Super fun, a lot more interesting than most climbing books. There is a movie forthcoming about Harding, although it has been stuck in development hell for a little while. Currently, Ethan Hawke, Daniel Radcliffe, and Jessica Biel are attached. Whatever they end up making, I seriously doubt it will be as creative as this book. 

I sold my original printing, which was in somewhat poor condition, but I have a good-quality reprint available.

Storm and Sorrow in the High Pamirs by Robert Craig

One of the classics of the American mountaineering canon, this book tells of an American expedition to climb in the USSR one summer when the Soviets invited climbers from all over the world to come experience their mountains. Tragedy struck involving avalanches and weather, and many people died: including American Gary Ullin, three Estonian climbers, and the entire team of eight Soviet Women Climbers, whose stoic demise in the book brought me to tears - not a frequent occurence for me. This book can read a little dry but the premise and situation was unique enough to hold my interest. 

I have not listed this one for sale yet - although I may at a later date. The copy I have is inscribed from Bob Craig to Steve Komito. I traveled to South Korea with this one because I thought I wouldn't mind beating it up since it seemed to be in poor shape - and only later discovered the inscription. Oh well, it kept me entertained on the plane.

Beyond the Vertical by Layton Kor

Layton Kor is a name you'll see all over Colorado - so I knew of him from his routes. But to read his words, see pictures of his pioneering climbs in beautiful color, and hear his climbing partners describe him helps round out the man as myth. This is an excellent coffee-table book, good for a little reading here and there. It's fascinating that Layton burned so bright in the climbing scene for ten years or so, and then turned on a dime, became a Jehovah's Witness, and essentially never returned. The full-size color photos really make this book a nice experience. 

I have a couple copies of this book for sale still.

Freedom Climbers by Bernadette McDonald

A history of Polish mountaineering. I had heard this book was about how Polish mountaineers used climbing as a method of expression to push back against Communism and the oppressive society in which they found themselves, but sadly I did not find that thread was too prevalent in the book. It was more a top-level history of Polish accomplishments during the golden age of Himalayan Climbing. Don't get me wrong, these men and women racked up an impressive scorecard during these years - but I was hoping for something to give me succor against the coming years in America. Instead, this book left me cold and grim: almost everyone dies. 

I borrowed this book from the library - I do not have a copy for sale.

The Ascent of Rum Doodle

A very funny satire of expedition literature. Not much else to say, this is an easy, quick read and enjoyable if you're familiar with what it's spoofing. 

I have a cheap copy for sale - $5!

Non climbing reading: Congo's Violent Peace: Conflict and Struggle Since the Great African War (cheery); That Was Dachau: 1933-1945 (even cheerier); Remarkably Bright Creatures (actually light and cheerful, a much-needed palate cleanser).

Up next: I'll give Bernadette another chance with Alpine Warriors, which is her history of Slovenian Alpinism. I've also ordered the sequel to The Eiger Sanction, titled The Loo Sanction.